DAY 13: SURPRISE, it's uphill

Agua Caliente Creek --> the freezing canyon camp.

Nice morning along Agua Caliente Creek. The trail started out closely hugging the creek, under the shade of the trees. It was a nice respite from the exposed trail we've been trudging along. There was only one thing wrong with these shady 5 miles - it was uphill. I don't like being surprised by uphill slogs. I prefer to know what sort of elevation gains/losses I'm in for each day, trying my best to prep myself each night for the following day by studying my maps. I had been lazy and hadn't looked at my maps in (what seems like) a few days.

I powered up those hills, had a great morning, despite the increasing temperature, ascent, and wind.

Stopped for a snack break and instantly lost momentum. For a few hours I was at a really low point... Inching up the mountain.

Every day around 10am (or our first snack/lunch break) I hit a wall and plummet to a really fatigued zone that is hard to shake. But I have found the answer - Starbucks VIA.

By downing a Starbucks VIA packet (with added sugar) I am able to walk up to 12 miles straight without feeling the slightest bit tired. It's like magic, it's not just the fact that it wakes me up, it ACTUALLY improves my mood dramatically! It's like I have a jet pack on, something pushing me forward and keeping my spirits high.

So I VIA'd and felt great! Gorgeous day, splendid surroundings.

Saw my first rattlesnake. Well... I can't take full credit for seeing the snake first. I didn't run into it, it didn't startle me, and it didn't rattle (it wasn't even coiled, thankfully).

I came around a bend and there was Paul (from the UK) photographing something. He said, "there's a snake in that bush" and yes, I saw it there in that bush, doin' it's tongue flicking.

Moved on quickly after that... Removed my headphones cautiously, terrified at the thought of snakes I had passed earlier in the day when I was deep in This American Life and Radiolab. I know better than to hike in the desert with headphones in, but... Sometimes the rule has to be broken if you want to go one. Music saves me.

I flew straight through the next 10 miles with a skip in my step. I have so much energy early on in the day.

Caught up with another hiker named Aaron and we cruised on into "Mikes Place" an oasis in the middle of no where. Seriously - his house was in the middle of the desert, it's the only house.

This trail angel, Mike, opens up his house to any and all hikers passing through ( and its basically right. On. The. Trail).

Mike was out of town, but he still leaves his house and yard open to hikers, it's really amazing. There was a pct register, which we signed, and a hiker box with discarded food and gear. There were about 25 other hikers relaxing there (which, unfortunately, I did not get photos of)...

I napped on a cozy porch swing, cooked my cous cous, and organized my pack.

Rolled out at the late hour of 5:30pm, full, sleepy and feet heavy with lead.

Got to our final resting spot just as the sun was setting... and it was freezing. F R E E Z I N G. We were in a deep valley, where the cold air settled. I could not get warm! I took all extra steps to ensure a warm night if sleep, too: slept in our tent, wore every piece of clothing I own (including my down jacket), had my silk sleeping bag liner, hat, hood up. Still cold. I think it was near freezing...